Celebrate Mother's Day By Making A DIY 'Best Mom Ever' Apron

Show Mom how much you love her with this embroidered Apron. Pieced quilt block instructions are included, or, you can use those orphan quilt blocks from other projects.

Common Abbreviations Used

• WOF – Width of Fabric
• RST – Right Sides Together
• WST – Wrong Sides Together All Seam Allowances are a
• SCANT ¼” unless stated otherwise.

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MATERIALS NEEDED

• Lightweight cut-away stabilizer for machine embroidery
• Brother Embroidery/Sewing Machine
  (The Luminaire XP2
  was used here.)
• Gathering Foot
  (optional)
• Cotton Thread to match main apron fabric
• Scissors
• Rotary Cutter
• Rotary Mat / Rulers
• PES Embroidery File – Found HERE
  
• Your Favorite General Sewing Notions

Fabric:

• Buttercream Fabric – Main Apron 1 ½ yards
• Blue Floral Fabric – Apron Accents and Quilt Blocks 2/3 yard
• Cream Floral Fabric – Quilt Blocks ¼ yard
• Peach Floral Fabric – Quilt Blocks ¼ yard
• Turquoise Solid Fabric – Quilt Blocks ¼ yard
• Pink Solid Fabric – Quilt Blocks 1/8 yard
• Green Solid Fabric – Quilt Blocks ¼ yard
• Yellow Solid Fabric – Quilt Blocks 1/8 yard
• Peach Solid Fabric – Quilt Blocks 1/8 yard

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CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS

• Buttercream Fabric A. 1 – 15” x WOF to embroider on B. 1 – 10 ¼” x 12 ½” C. 1 – 12” x 32” D. 1 – 7” x 31 ½” E. 1 – 7” square F. 2 – 4 ¾” squares G. 1 – 3 3/8” square, cut on the diagonal H. 2 – 3” x 19” I. 4 – 1 5/8” squares J. 2 – 1 ¼” x 7” rectangles K. 2 – 1 ¼” x 5 ½” rectangles  
• Blue Floral Fabric – Apron Accents (Waistband, Ties, Neckband, Quilt Blocks) L. 1 – 23” x 3 ½” M. 2 – 4 ½” x 40” N. 2 – 3” x 19” O. 2 – 4 ¾” squares P. 1 – 3 ½” square  
• Cream Floral Fabric Q. 3 – 4 ¼” square, cut twice on the diagonal R. 2 – 2 ¾” squares, cut on the diagonal S. 4 – 2 3/8 squares, cut on the diagonal T. 4 – 2” squares U. 8 – 1 ¾” squares  
• Peach Floral Fabric V. 4 – 3 ¼” squares, cut on the diagonal W. 1 – 3 3/8” square, cut on the diagonal X. 2 – 3” squares  
• Turquoise Solid Fabric Y. 2 – 2 ¾” squares, cut on the diagonal twice Z. 4 – 2 3/8” squares, cut on the diagonal  
• Pink Solid Fabric AA. 12 – 2 3/8 squares, cut on the diagonal  
• Green Solid Fabric BB. 4 – 3 ¼” squares, cut on the diagonal  
• Yellow Solid Fabric CC. 10 – 1 ¾” squares  
• Peach Solid Fabric DD. 4 – 2 3/8” squares, cut on the diagonal

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APRON CONSTRUCTION Part One – Embroider Apron Bib

1. Cut a piece of lightweight cut-away stabilizer big enough to fit your desired hoop. If using quilter’s cotton for the body of the apron you may also want to use an iron on interfacing/stabilizer on the back of the fabric before hooping with the stabilizer.

2. Cut Fabric A to approximately 15” x 22.”

3. Hoop your stabilizer and fabric in your frame. We used Brother’s new Hoopnetic Magnetic Sash Frame.

4. Load “Best Mom Ever” embroidery design into your embroidery machine.

5. Center design in hoop and embroider.

6. Once design is finished embroidering, remove from hoop and press. Cut embroidered fabric to 12 ½” wide and 8 ¼” high, positioning the embroidery approximately 1” from the top as well as centering the design horizontally.

7. Cut away excess stabilizer from back and set aside.

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Part Two – Piece Apron Bib Border Accent 1. Place one “F” square and one “N” square RST and stitch around the entire perimeter.

2. Repeat with second “F” and “N” squares.

3. Cut the squares sewn in Step One and Step Two diagonally twice producing EIGHT ½-square triangles. (You only need SIX for the top of your apron bib.)

4. Press the ½ square triangles open, pressing the seam toward the darker fabric.

5. Trim the ½ square triangles to 2 ½”.

6. Sew six of the ½ square triangles together to construct the top border of your apron bib.

7. Make ONE Border Unit.

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Part Three – Piece Quilt Blocks* *If you have decided to make your apron using orphan blocks, or blocks of your own choosing, you can skip to Step Four.*

Heart Block

1. Pair a triangle “G” with a triangle “V” RST and sew down the longest side. Repeat with the other “G” and “V” units.

2. Press ½ square triangle unit blocks open. Make TWO units. Each unit should be 3” square. Trim to size if needed.

3. Draw a diagonal line on the WRONG side of each of the FOUR “I” squares.

4. Matching RST, line up one “I” square with the top left corner of one “W” square. Sew on the diagonal line you drew in Step Three. Trim seam allowance to 1/4.”

5. Repeat this process matching another “I” square in the top right corner of the “W” square.

6. Repeat Step Three and Step Four with the remaining “W” squares, making TWO units.

7. Match the units made in Step Two RST and stitch. Press seam to one side.

8. Match the units completed in Step Six RST and stitch. Press seam in the opposite direction of the Step Seven units.

9. Nesting the seams, stitch units from Step Seven and Step Eight together, RST. Press seam OPEN. Heart should measure 5 ½” square. Trim to size if necessary.

10. Stitch one rectangle “K” to the LEFT side of the heart block and press seam toward the outside. Sew the other “K” rectangle to the RIGHT side of the heart block, pressing the seam toward the outside.

11. Stitch one rectangle “J” to the TOP of the heart block and press the seam toward the outside. Repeat this process sewing the remaining “J” rectangle to the BOTTOM of the heart block.

12. Make ONE Heart Block.

Variable Star Block 1. Matching RST, match piece “CC” with one of the “P” triangles and sew on the diagonal. Press seam toward the outside.

2. Match another piece “CC” to the opposite side of the unit sewn in Step One and stitch on the diagonal. Press toward the outside.

3. Trim unit to 3 ½” x 2”.

4. Repeat Step One and Step Two, making FOUR units.

5. Lay out your block as shown before stitching the final seams.

6. Match one of the units from Step Three with one “S” square and stitch down the 2” side. Press seam toward “S.”

7. Stich another “S” square on the opposite side. Press seam toward “S.”

8. Repeat Step Six and Step Seven, making TWO units.

9. Matching RST, stitch square “O” to one of the Step Three units, making sure the points are facing away from the center of the block. Press seam toward “O.”

10. Sew remaining unit from Step Three to opposite side of square “O” and press toward “O.”

11. Sew one of the units from Step Six to the unit made in Step Nine, nesting seams. Press seam toward center.

12. Sew remaining unit from Step Eight to bottom of piece sewn in Step Ten. Press seam toward center. Block should measure 6 ½” square.

13. Make ONE Block.  

Star & Pinwheels Block

1. Matching RST, stitch piece “Q” to piece “X” on one short side. MAKE SURE that when the stitched piece is opened (and the point is facing up), the floral fabric is on the LEFT. Press seam toward the darkest fabric.

2. Repeat Step One to make FOUR units.

3. Pair a Step Two unit with piece “Z,” stitching down the longest side. Press seam toward “Z.” Repeat making FOUR units. If necessary, trim units to 2” square.

4. Pair triangle “R” with triangle “Y” and stitch down the longest side. Open and press toward the darkest fabric. Repeat, making FOUR units. If necessary, trim units to 2” square.

5. Matching RST, match piece “Z” with one “P” triangle and sew on the diagonal. Press seam toward the outside.

6. Match another piece “Z” to the opposite side of the unit sewn in Step Five and sew on the diagonal. Press toward the outside.

7. Make FOUR units and trim each unit to 3 ½” x 2”.

8. Sew one unit from Step Four with one unit from Step Seven. Press toward center. Sew a second unit from Step Four to the opposite side. Press toward the center. Make TWO units.

9. With RST, stitch two units from Step Two together. Press toward the right. Repeat with remaining Step Two units.

10. Stitch units from Step Ten RST nesting the seams. Press this seam open.

11. Stitch one unit from Step Seven to one side of the unit from Step Ten. Repeat, adding the other Step Seven unit to the opposite side. Press seams toward the outside.

12. Stitch a Step Eight unit to the top of the Step Eleven Unit. Press seam toward outside.

13. Stitch remaining Step Eight unit to the bottom of the Step Eleven unit. Press seam toward the outside.

14. Repeat Steps 1-14 to make TWO blocks.  

Key Block

1. With RST, stitch one “T” square to one “BB” square. Press seam toward darker fabric.

2. Repeat Step One three more times to make a total of FOUR units.

3. Match one “U” triangle with one “AA” triangle and stitch, RST, down the longest side.

 

4. Repeat Step Three 3 more times to make a total of FOUR units.

5. Lay out your block as shown to use as reference while stitching.

6. With RST, stitch one unit from Step Two to one unit from Step Four. Press seam toward half square triangle unit.

7. Stitch another Step Four unit to the opposite side of the Step Two unit. Press this seam toward the half square triangle unit.

8. Stitch one unit from Step Two to another piece “BB” making sure the two solid colors are on opposite sides of the floral fabric. Press the seam toward the new “BB” square.

9. Take the unit from Step Eight and, with RST, stitch a unit from Step Two to the opposite side. Press the seam toward the “BB” square.

10. Stitch another unit from Step Two to a Step Four unit, RST. Press toward the outside.

11. Lay out your block one more time, making sure your pinwheel is turning in the right direction.

12. Sew the Step Seven unit RST to the Step Eight unit. Press toward the center.

13. Sew the unit made in Step Ten to the bottom of your Step Eight unit. Press toward the center. If necessary, trim your completed block to 6 ½” square.

14. Repeat Steps 1 through 12 to make TWO Blocks.

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Part Four – Piece Apron Neck Band and Bib

1. With RST, fold piece “L” in half, lengthwise. Stitch down longest side.

2. Turn RSO and press, centering seam on one side.

3. Topstitch 1/8” to 1/4” down both sides of neckband. Set aside.

4. Stitch the Apron Accent constructed in Part Two Above RST with the embroidered Apron front panel from Part One.

5. Press seam toward embroidered panel and topstitch.

6. Pin the neckband from Step Two (seam side facing up) to the top of the accent band on either side, approximately ¼” from each side with approximately 1” into the seam allowance. Baste neck band in place using 1/8” seam.

7. With RST together, pin piece “B” to the embroidered Apron Bib, sandwiching neck bank within the seam allowance.

8. Beginning at the bottom of one side seam, stitch around three sides, pivoting at each corner and backstitching over each end of the neck band to hold it in place.

9. Clip the corners and turn Apron Bib RSO. Press gently.

10. Top stitch all the way around three sides to finish.

11. Baste bottom of Apron Bib closed for easier construction later.

12. Set your Apron Bib aside.

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Part Five – Assemble Pocket 1. Match your Heart Quilt block pieced above RST with piece “E.”

2. Pin around outside.

3. Starting at the bottom of the block, stitch all the way around the outside, backstitching at the corners and leaving approximately 2” open at the bottom.

4. Turn block Right Side out through the 2” opening and press the seam flat, tucking in the seam allowance at the opening.

5. Top stitch 1/8” and then again ¼” from the top of your pocket for decoration.

6. Set pocket aside.

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Part Six – Construct Ties

1. With RST, fold piece “M” in half, lengthwise. Stith down longest side, all the way around on short end. Backstitch at the end of the seam.

2. Repeat with second “M” piece to make two Apron Ties.

3. Turn the ties Right Side out and press. 4. Topstitch all the way around three sides of both ties for a finished look.

5. Set both ties aside.

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Part Seven – Assemble Apron Skirt

1. Stitch the FIVE quilt blocks pieced above in an order pleasing to your eye.

2. Fold over one long edge of piece “D” ¼” and press. Fold over the same edge ¼” one more time and press. Set aside.

 

3. On piece “C” fold over short (12”) side ¼” and press. Fold over ¼” one more time and press.

4. Stitch the folded edge down.

5. Repeat on opposite short side of piece “C.” 6. Match the unfolded edge of piece “D” (lining) with your pieced blocks from Step One and pin in place.

7. Stitch along on this edge as shown.

8. Open and press seam toward piece “D.”

9. Using a pin, mark the center of one of the long sides of piece “C.”

10. Using a pin, mark the center of your quilt block row (not attached to piece “D”).

11. With RST, pin piece “C” lengthwise to your row of quilt blocks, matching the center pins.

12. Pin all the way across long edge.

13. Take note that the row of quilt blocks is ¼” longer than piece “C” on each side. This is OK!

14. Stitch along the pinned edge, removing the pins as you sew. 15. When finished and the seams are opened, the row of quilt blocks should be between piece “C” and piece “D.”

16. Press seam toward quilt blocks.

17. Fold piece “D” up over the top of the quilt blocks and pin along two short sides.

18. Using a ¼” seam allowance, stitch sides from bottom up to the top.

19. Clip bottom corners and turn lining right side out and press.

20. From the back, pin the lining in place hiding the seam as shown.

21. From the front, stitch in the ditch along the seam. (Hint: I keep my hand under the fabric removing the pins from the back as I stitch slowly.)

22. Press the bottom of the apron after stitching and then top stitch 1/8” around the three sides of the row of quilt blocks for a finished look.

Pocket Placement

23. Position the Heart pocket on the front of your apron skirt lined up with the second quilt block from the edge and approximately 1 ½” from the top of row of quilt blocks. Pin in place.

24. Beginning on top right of the pocket, top stitch 1/8” all the way around three sides, making sure to backstitch at the beginning and end of your row of stitching.

25. Stitch a second row of topstitching ¼” all the way around the three sides.

26. Double check that your pocket top opens.

Waistband

27. On piece “N,” fold over one short end ¼” and press.

28. Fold over ¼” again and press.

29. Stitch close to the edge of fold.

30. Fold over ½” on one long edge of each piece “N.”

31. Mark CENTER of top of piece “D” with a pin or fabric marker.

32. Using a large basting stitch, sew TWO rows of stitching on the top edge of Apron skirt (Piece “D”). Leave at least 3” of threads on either end of both rows of stitching. {A Brother gathering foot can be used for this step as well}.

33. Insert a pin on one end of stitching and wrap thread ends in a figure 8 around the pin to hold in place. On opposite end of stitching, pull bobbin threads ONLY to evenly gather the top of the skirt. 34. Place one piece “N” right side up with folded edge facing down. Place gathered Apron skirt right side up on top of piece “N.”

35. Mark CENTER of other piece “N” with a fabric marker.

36. Generously pin piece “N” from Step 35 right side down, sandwiching gathered apron skirt between it and the other “N” piece.

37. Slowly stitch the pinned edge, removing pins as you sew, making sure to backstitch at both the beginning and end of the stitching.

38. Mark the bottom front CENTER of the apron bib with a fabric marker.

39. Match bottom center of apron bib with the CENTER mark placed on piece “N” in Step 35 above.

40. Pin the front waistband to the front of the apron bib, making sure that top stays folded.

41. Turn apron over to the backside and fold back waistband up, pinning in place, being sure to match finished edges of waistband sides and top. Pin all the way across through ALL LAYERS (both waistband pieces and apron bib).

42. From the front, SLOWLY stitch 1/8” near the top of the waistband (Hint: I keep my hand underneath so that I can remove pins as I sew).

43. Topstitch 1/8” on the other side of the waistband above the gathered skirt. [Picture 101]

Apron Ties

44. Fold a pleat on the open end of one of the ties made in Part Six. Pin in place.

45. Stitch ¼” over the end to hold pleat in place.

46. Insert the pleated end of the tie approximately 1” one side of the open waistband. Pin in place.

47. Top stitch 1/8” from edge of waistband. For security, top stitch once more ¼” from edge of waistband.

48. Repeat Steps 44-47 with other tie on the other side of waistband. Congratulations! You have completed your Apron!

**Cutting mat used in photos is a product of Fiskars. Rotary cutter used in photos is a product of Olfa. Brother International Corporation makes no representations or warranties regarding these products.**